Climb 2011 - ITS TIME!

My christmas wish this year is to have a nice christmas tree next year!

8a
7c+,7c+
7c, 7c, 7c
7b+

Climb 2010 - The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

The Good
- Completed Le Privilege Du Serpent and Vegabond D Occident. Epic.
- Awesome France trip. Great climbing, great people, great food, lots of sight seeing. Thats how it should be done!
- No major injury this year. Dave Macleod is right "When our bodies are tired and cant manage it, we get annoyed and do exactly the wrong thing - Try even harder". The key is to reduce intensity when you are performing below expectations and be patient if you are in the middle of a down cycle. This is especially apparent if you periodize.

The Bad
- No hard onsights this year. Onsight has always been my achilles heel, my kryptonite
- Didnt achieve my goal of a nice pyramid. Short of 1 7b+

The Ugly
- Maybe my poor performance during Rock On? i dunno, didnt bother me a lot. i was focusing my efforts on IPPT.

Family Guy Funny

climbing again

Oh yes i am climbing again! Back from my short Sharma break! Seems like there is no time to lose as Alvin is heading up YS next Mar. i am definitely super keen to visit White Mountain again but then again i have other commitments to worry about.....

Trying really hard to regain my fitness now. Based on my current performance, this is going to take some time. Shucks

Yessss......

Finally! My first IPPT gold. Proud!

Barbra

Word of Wisdom

Putting all your eggs in the same basket is not as bad as putting all your eggs in the wrong baskets.

Sharma Break

Its time for my annual sharma break! This year its going to be a 2-3 weeks rest from climbing. This break is going to be full of running with my reservist in the middle. Yiaks! Anyway the awesome thing about this break is that i am usually forced to take a break due to a bad injury. However this time it is on my own free will. I felt that i needed a timeout.

Coping

D-W-S!!!!

Nice Video of Ceuse

VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Adam Ondra on first ascent of L‘étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs (9a+), Ceüse, France from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Lock Off or Die!!!!!

Saw this picture in Petzl blog. This is some serious training facility......

No motivation

Been rather slack with climbing lately. No motivation to train. Perhaps is because i don't have any climbing goals at the moment. No leave to go on long trips, reservist coming (force rest), Osmosis too hard for me.....Maybe i should drive up to Batu Caves one weekend to try Osmosis again. Maybe i am strong enough to do the crux this year. I have been bouldering lately so perhaps i have gotten stronger (or not). Heh

In other news, seems like Julian Ramon has been crushing it in the Climbing World Cup circuit this year. Short is the new strong! Hope he wins this year, he deserves it. Venga!

My Favorite Fishball Noodle

Just look at that fish cake!!!

Wooooo delicious!!!

Maximum Spider!

How to go to 1 utama (from e2)

1) at e2 after the exit to nilai, exit left to e6
2) at end of e6 (after shah alam stadium) road will veer right to new klang valley expressway (nkve), keep to main road but keep left
3) exit on 2nd exit (exit 106), left exit, road will swing right
4) after toll booth, keep left, dun go up highway, and turn left on the first obvious left turn, u should see a 7-11 in front when u turn
5) u will then hit a roundabout, da middle is a carpark, at the roundabout exit right
6) keep going straight until u hit main road again, turn left
7) go up highway which should veer left (if u couldnt go up highway, do illegal left at traffic junction)
8) u should b able to see hotel 1 world from the flyover (on the left)

Almost Ready.......Psyched

Reel Rock Tour 2010 - Trailer

"Everyone wants to be the best, if you don't keep training, you are going to be left behind" ~ Daniel Woods or Paul Robinson

Photos of Ceuse

The walk

More walking

The wall

Our tent and our ride

Biography

2 Second Tent

What I ate in Southern France (Part 2)

I would call this an absolute disaster

One of my favourite food - Moules Mariniere + Frites

Salade Nordique

Ravioles?

Bouillabaisse! + Caesar's Salad

What I ate in Southern France (Part 1)

Salmon in cod fish sauce with fried egg on top + tagliatelle with mushroom and tomato base pasta sauce

Poule in a pot soup (instant) with mushroom and lettuce + teriyaki chicken drumstick

Seafood pizza

Goat cheese + local delights

Spaghetti with pesto sauce and small tomatoes + beef patty (in teriyaki sauce?)

WTF!!!!!!

RocTrip 2010: Ceuse

This is it! This is the day! So psyched now! Cant wait to go shopping in Decathlon! Draws at 8 Euro, 70m rope at 115 Euro. Damm it is cheap!!! Suddenly it seems meaningless to stuff my bag when i should leave it as empty as possible.

Anyway i got THREE goals this trip:
1) To enjoy every single climbing day regardless of my performance
2) To not get discouraged and move on if i climb badly on a route
3) To go Al Muerte on every single climb

I will try to update this blog with pictures and stuff as often as i can. If you are interested to know what type of tent i am staying in or what i had for dinner, please check back in frequently cause you never know when i am going to update this blog. Heh!

Putrajaya - Gray route

My best attempt on the gray route. Still not strong enulf!!!

Video filmed by JiaSheng

Daigo Wins 10-3!!!

Looks like i over-estimated Momochi. He has no answers to Daigo's spacing and counter-attack strategy. Brutally destroyed by the beast. He should go back to Akuma......

Alternate Route from PCC to the Expressway

Although we went off course a bit (in green), we still manage to enter the expressway within 18 mins. The drive is also much smoother because the roads are wider and there were fewer cars.

GodsGarden Tournament

Daigo's Ryu is going to battle against Momochi's Ibuki tonight at 9pm. The format is a simple race to 10. The match should be viewable live on Godsgarden UStream page (http://www.ustream.tv/channel/godsgarden) and Eventhubs (www.eventhubs.com).

I am quite sure this is going to be one of the best matches in the tournament as both players are ultra skilled. If there is someone in this world that can beat Daigo, it is Momochi. He also decides to shoot knives instead of fireballs this time round choosing Ibuki (instead of Akuma) for the match. It will be exciting to see a high level Ibuki in action. Plus the fact that Ryu is nerfed big time and given a useless ultra 2, it is anyone's game.

My Guess: Daigo Wins 10-9. Daigo will be Daigo so suck it!

Alternate route from PCC to NS Highway?

Will test it out this weekend......

Southern France

What you have heard is true. i am returning to Southern France for a 21 days climbing trip. The itinerary is not finalized yet but i will probably visit Gorges Du Loup and Ceuse (and tour Nice). My main focus now is to get rid of my nagging pains and climb the gray route! That's right i am going KL tomorrow!

10 (or 12m) slide at Terminal 3

Flaming Cake. Delicious!

Tracking my Climbing Progress (2)

Late May - Went to camp 5 / putra, finished the gray in camp5 but not the gray in Putra though i feel a little closer this time. I WILL FINISH IT ON MY NEXT TRIP!!!
Early Jun - Lotsa bouldering!!! A bit too much actually, didn't feel like i have the opportunity to recover fully from the trip
Mid Jun - Down Period!!! Fell sick and feeling terrible. Still not giving myself enough rest. Pinkie finger not recovering and worse, strained my elbow while bouldering. Is this the end of the run??? Decided to rest for 3 days.
Today - Health still not 100%, elbow strain only gave me trouble during warm up and pinkie still bothering me on certain holds. Shucks......

Only 3 more weeks before my Southern France Trip, pressure is mounting... I need to re-strategize.

I was wondering who is this C Leong.....

Nike World Cup Ad - Its all or NOTHING!

Tracking my Climbing Progress

1) Oct 2009 - Started climbing again after a serious pulley injury
2) Oct to Mid Nov 2009 - Started building up my climbing fitness
3) Late Nov 2009 - Yangshuo, 2 weeks, completed a few 7bs, 7b+es
4) Dec 2009 - Maintenance mode
5) Late Dec 2009 - Nyammuk/Camp5/Putra, completed Pear, felt super fit endurance wise though lacking in strength and power
6) Jan 2010 to Early Mar 2010 - Periodization
i) 2 weeks of strength
ii) 2 weeks of strength/power
iii) 2 Weeks of Power
iv) 3 weeks of Power Endurance
Felt that my strength and power improved, able to do the crux of a route in Putra (which i couldn't do in Dec 09). Not as fit endurance wise compared to after Yangshuo
7) Mid Mar 2010 - Krabi, 1 week, completed a 7b+ and 7c. Felt that all the 7b+es in Krabi were within reach (except for maybe BDD which i didn't try)
8) Late Mar 2010 - Feeling demotivated, felt that i had sacrificed too much of my time in climbing. Taking it easy with short and relaxing sessions
9) Mid Apr 2010 - Old man came back, organized KL trip and got everyone psyched (ok maybe not everyone), decided to try getting back my fitness
10) May 2010 - 4 weeks of fitness training, decided to incorporate training for KL into a larger periodization program which will end in early July in time for my overseas trip.
11) Mid May 2010 - Feeling good though i am the type of person who likes to overdo things when i feel strong and ends up getting injured. Need to be mindful of that. Projects for Camp5 and Putra - GRAY ROUTES!!!

Talk about outperforming the market

Whats up with COSCO CORP?

Seriously, what is UP with them? From a low of 1.19 on 12 Mar 2010, it grew to 1.81 today (more than 50% increase in value). Can someone tell me whats going on over there in China? Are they going to give out massive dividends? Tell me cause i am too busy to investigate....

Note: Numbers from Yahoo Finance

STI Breaks 3000!

In less than a year, STI grew from a mere 1791.45 to over 3000 today. That's approximately a 67% increase! If you have entered the market last Apr throwing your money into the various reliable STI counters(eg Keppel, Sembcorp, OCBC, etc), you would probably have made at least 30% profit. Ok you can say that hindsight is always 20/20, but if you have at least stay invested during the tough times, putting money in bit by bit since Nov 2008 (like me), you would at least make enough profit to cover your losses during the meltdown (like me again, heh).

That said, some counters never see the light after the meltdown so invest with care!

Note: Numbers from Yahoo Finance

Word of the day: Hemipenes

SMACKDOWN

27 Apr 2010, Mark this date!

Hope this is the last round.......

Given the controversies and flaming resulting from the FRFM saga, as an EX-VSC*, I felt a need to comment on this incident. Though most of the comments in the various blogs and websites are constructive and not directed at anyone, I am saddened by certain posts that are purely speculative, extreme and written with the purpose of putting the involved individuals down. These comments really take us back a few years in terms of the evolution of climbing. I am often uncomfortable when i hear people make sweeping statements about controversial topics (climbing or non-climbing). What's with the confidence? Why are you so sure if it is right or wrong? Is everything so black and white? If someone did something that you think is wrong, why are you so fast to judge and take that person down with all that negative energy? These people should just chill and focus on their own messed up life and how to make it better.


*VSC = Very Serious Climber (Hardcore but not very strong)

Krabi 2010

Still couldn't finish Sour Fish! Argghhh!

This trip gave me an opportunity to reminiscence about my climbing throughout the years, the sacrifices that i made and the memorable experiences. It was a good run for sure and i felt that i had put in my utmost effort. The results are commendable though not impressive. But hey, i only need to answer to myself right? I am at peace with myself. It is time to take it easy. Anyway I don't foresee anymore climbing trips this year, that is unless i get laid off =p

Rest Rest Rest

First gay Street Fighter Character?

The Ultimate Periodization Program?

Check out the periodization programs in http://www.kletterzentrum-tivoli.at/

Tivoli in Innsbruck is the gym that churns out climbers like Johanna Ernst and David Lama. The website provides training programs for beginners, amatuers and professionals. If you don't understand German, use google to translate the page. The wordings might seem weird after translation though.

Krabi 2010

I will be in Krabi from 12-Mar to 22-Mar to fight it out and tear it down. Hope i can complete my goal of redpointing Sour Fish Curry. A Muerte!

If you are interested in my sends this trip, feel free to follow me at 8a.nu. Cheers

Nice Vid

IKER POU - DEMENCIA SENIL (MONTAJE 2.1) from jordi canyigueral on Vimeo.

Now you can look like Sharma!

Brand New Prana Mojo for SALE!!! 3 colors available, PEWTER (greyish blue), CYPRESS (dull green) and hot favourite BURNT OFFERINGS oops i mean BURNT ORANGE. Size S only. I will give you special price don't worry! While stocks last.

Episode 2 (the sequel)

Episode 1

If you can't climb, at least look good!

Can't climb like Sharma? Fret not! Now you can look like Sharma! Details coming soon......

Pictures from last weekend. From my phone camera

Nice T-shirt


My favourite Seafood Soup in Singapore! Think i will post more of such photos over the next few weeks

Driving Aggression

Another interesting thing about Roctrip 2010, at least from my perspective, is that I drove my little Getzy up this time. Driving in Malaysia definitely require a fair bit of aggression and the flip side to it is i seem to have brought this impatient driving technique back to SG. This can be a bit dangerous especially when i am a fairly inexperience driver and i don't drive all the time. Ya so i better watch myself, listen to soothing music, etc..... All in all, driving in Malaysia is generally enjoyable and i will definitely do it again =)

Putra Roctrip

Another awesome trip to KL! 1 day in camp5 and 1 day in Putrajaya. Although i felt that my endurance was not as good compared to last December, i definitely felt stronger from all the training and bouldering. At least i could do certain moves which i couldnt do last December. 1 more week of power training and it is time to work on my power endurance. Venga

Putra Roctrip 2010

Details:
Going by car (in alphabetical order)
1) Alvin
2) Assad
3) Baoyan
4) Chee Meng
5) Elisa
6) Jay
7) Jessica
8) Kun Kiat (Michael)
9) Liu Li
10) Ning Feng
11) Paul
12) Ronghui
13) Shu Mei
14) Weiming
15) Yi Chuan

Going by plane (in alphabetical order)
1) Li Ting

Not Going (in alphabetical order)
1) Donny
2) Sze Ping

Accommodation
2 x 3-room apartment (Assad to confirm)

Getting there
3 x car (Alvin, CM and Jay)

Meeting time and place
30th Jan 2010, 6.30am at Boon Lay MRT (drivers please pick up stragglers along the way)

Get psyched for the hike!

A photo from last year

photographer: Liu Feng

From the Straits Times

Where is this place?

What does the first sentence mean?